Tuesday, July 14, 2015

Coding a C# version of Threesus AI into Perl5

I mentioned back in March one of my "big" projects was to convert the Threesus AI from C# to Perl5. Many reasons for this other than sheer stupidity :). I know Perl5 well and can think in Perl. I don't know C# and I have no idea if some C# code is brilliant or simply a mistake.

Another reason is that Perl5 is much more portable than C#, which is largely Win-based. Another reason  is that RPerl  is starting to be usable but requires that I use 'vanilla' Perl. (Actually my code tends to be pretty plain. perltidy doesn't complain much :)

Moo

So my first attempt involved modelling all the C# classes with roughly equivalent Moo classes. I'm keeping the code in a Github repo, Games-Threesus.

vec vs bits

I quickly decided that all the C# bit-wrangling was not for me so I started using an unknown (to me) Perl operator called vec. It allows me to code a 4x4 Threes! board into an 8-byte string (16 cells requiring 4 bits to encode its value = 64 bits) but each nibble is individually addressable. Turns out we only need 16 values to describe each card/cell which fits into 4 bits nicely.

Slowwwww

Well I knew it was going to be slow. The C# code compiles down to very efficient binary code and also takes advantage of multi-CPUs if they are present. The Perl code is big and slow. The recursive calling of the major methods adds hugely to the memory consumption.

First move!

Despite all the huge overhead involved it actually gave me a move command ('SWIPE Up') in a reasonable time. But at this stage there are so many warnings and error messages that I don't know if it worked or not. Single-stepping through the code allowed me to verify that the game simulation is accurate.

Time to rip out the plumbing

I used Moo to model the C# classes because I have a basic knowledge of its use. However it became apparent while single-stepping the code that I don't have enough knowledge of Moo's internals and I wasn't able to follow large swathes of Moo utility code. 

However when I stand back a bit and look at what I'm using Moo classes and methods for, it's not actually very much and the down side is a lot of overhead code which I don't understand. With an eye to RPerl, replacing Moo with 'bless'ed objects will allow me to pinpoint bottlenecks quicker.

Also, I realised I've been using 'constant' for no good reason. Simply using upper-case names is all I really need for the constants in this code.

Wednesday, April 1, 2015

Practically everything that could go wrong with my RigidBot 3D printer went wrong.

After replacing the main circuit board with a RUMBA to no effect, replacing the extruder motor to no effect, replacing the extruder flat cable to no effect and burning filament dregs out of the extruder nozzle to no effect, I happened to notice a small electrical flash in the connector from the extruder motor to the circuit board socket.

So I chopped off the extruder motor socket and soldered on individual sockets for each of the four wires. Finally, at last, I got a proper response out of the extruder motor. So I ran tests for a few hours and it all seemed to be OK and then the extruder stopped for no obvious reason.

Well the only piece in the whole extrusion chain that I hadn't replaced or repaired was the teflon tube in the filament pre-heater. And sure enough when I extracted it I found it had partially melted to partially fill the filament hole, making proper extrusion impossible. A bit of creative gouging with a small drill bit restored the hole sufficiently to allow filament to pass through.

And finally, after more hours of testing, I have a working 3D printer. I put all the original parts back in and it still worked :).

So I've started trying to catch up on my backlog of needed enclosures. Obviously I don't need a special enclosure for a RUMBA board because I've put the original board back into the enclosure already supplied.

I tried making an enclosure for my Parallella. This required me to re-construct the SolidWorks example on Thingiverse here into a parametric model I could change to suit my requirements, specifically I only had a 40mm x 40mm fan and I wanted to continue using the existing 5V power socket.

Yak-shaving to make a 3D model

I wondered if OpenSCAD was the quickest and easiest open source 3D modelling program. I wasn't prepared to pay the SolidWorks licence fee considering how infrequently I would be likely to use it. I looked at FreeCAD and it seems an interesting parametric design program. Then quite fortuitously I found SolveSpace which has only recently been made open-source but seems much more powerful and capable than FreeCAD. And there is a Mac OS X version as well. The trouble was, for the simple box enclosures I want to make OpenSCAD simply makes better sense to me. I suppose it appeals to my programmer background.

Plan B

In the meantime, I ordered an enclosure and cooling fan for the Parallella from Ground Electronics just in case I found making a usable enclosure too tedious or too difficult. The Plan B case arrived today and although I was very close to a working enclosure, I couldn't get the correct screws so it seemed easier to use this enclosure and get on with other things.


Tuesday, March 3, 2015

RigidBot projects

The list of 3D printed artefacts I need is growing longer each week. In no particular order:


  1. If I decide to continue with the RUMBA controller board, I will need an enclosure for it.
  2. I need an enclosure for the Parallella which will hold the fan over the Zynq chip.
  3. I want a translucent enclosure for the CharlieCube I made late last year.
  4. My "grand project" is a Perl 6 implementation of the Threesus project. The original project has a video camera watching an iPad screen, OCRing the image it sees, deciding the best next move then activating one of two stepper motors to swipe the iPad screen up or down, left or right. Not sure if I want to get to the stage of using the stepper motors (although I have a couple in my spares box). I want to use my Raspberry Pi with camera module for the video processing, so I would like to build an enclosure to hold the RPi and camera in a config which makes it usable for OCRing an iPad (or iPhone).
  5. An enclosure for a reflow oven controller.
  6. An enclosure for a coffee bean roaster controller I am designing for an Elektor competition.

RigidBot repairs

The sharp-witted amongst us will have noted in my previous blog that I had found the cause of all the problems with the RigidBot, but I didn't recognise it even while I was writing about it.

The open-circuit on pin 1 of the extruder flat cable is a sufficient explanation of all the problems the printer showed. I simply didn't follow an orderly chain of testing the components and cables to isolate the cable.

Anyway I've ordered some replacement cable and connectors and I will now have to wait the three or four weeks it takes will they arrive.

My hypothesis is that I will be able to return the original main board to the printer, replace the faulty cable and everything will work correctly. And if it doesn't, I now have so many replacement parts that I can replace nearly all of the fragile parts of the printer to keep it running.

Monday, March 2, 2015

RigidBot tale of woe

My pretty RigidBot(RB) was churning out pretty and occasionally useful things for a few weeks after it arrived in October. I made every mistake there is to make with the RB until I finally got it printing reasonably accurate and repeatable things. I even ordered some "crystal" ABS filament with the intention of putting a translucent cover over the CharlieCube.

Then last December the extruder died. I'm not sure if I was the cause. I had accidentally put a knot in the filament and left the printer running overnight. So it spent about 12 hours pulling the same section of filament.

Initially I thought one of the coils in the stepper motor had burnt out or partially degraded. So I ordered a replacement motor and went on to other things. But the motor I'd ordered was the wrong one and it required a higher current. So I ordered another one. But this one didn't have the flat on the shaft. D'oh!

In the meantime I tried swapping motors around and eventually realised it was the driver that was faulty, not the motor.

Pity that the RB main board is an all-in-one board. Apparently it was done to "save money". But according to the RB wiki, Invent-A-Part (IAP) had to re-work every single board because the Chinese supplier had cheated on a whole swag of parts (without mentioning it to IAP of course) and the boards were dying all over the place. So much for saving money.

A few hundred RB owners quickly realised that the RB main board was simply a RUMBA board with stepper driver modules built onto the PCB instead of being pluggable (and hence replaceable). There was sufficient demand that one enterprising chap built a (BYEBYE) breakout board for the RB extruder cable so it wasn't necessary to completely re-wire the RB to replace the main board.

So I ordered a Geeetech RUMBA board + 5 x A4988 modules (+ heatsinks) and a BYEBYE board and forgot about the RB for six weeks and worked on other stuff.

The RUMBA and BYEBYE boards arrived last week a day apart and so began my tale of woe (not actually woe, just a huge exercise in yak-shaving).

All the RUMBA connections are screw terminals. I feel happier with these. No stuffing around with crimping tools etc. First I had to unsolder the thick power cable from the power supply board and replace it with bare wires I could put in the screw terminals. I don't have a soldering iron with sufficient wattage to melt the thick layers of solder holding the wires to the PS PCB. Luckily I do have a hot air gun for SMD soldering and when I cranked it up, I was able to melt the solder enough to extract the wires.

The next task was making connections from the BYEBYE board to the RUMBA board. Last year I had purchased a 'Make your own cable' kit from SeeedStudio which proved really helpful for keeping wires in some sort of order otherwise it would have been an even bigger rat's nest. (In retrospect, I should also have purchased the 'Make your own keyed cable' kit as many of the connections would have been cleaner with a keyed plug. No harm done though.)

So after a couple of days wiring and checking and checking again, I turned on the power and waited for puffs of smoke or flames or whatever. Nothing. Just some lights which should have been on.

Then began the task of programming the RUMBA. I was following Jonathan Roscoe's excellent blog on just this exercise. I've had to learn heaps of details about the RB (and 3D printers in general).

First I had to learn how to flash the Marlin firmware into the RUMBA. Took me a while to realise the RUMBA is simply an Arduino with some pre-wired peripherals (e.g. stepper motors, thermistors, heaters etc. etc.). Once that got through my thick skull, I was able to use all I had learned playing with Arduinos.

I've been using Repetier-Host(RH) to drive the RB and the Panel tab is particularly useful for testing individual parts of the RB. Using RH I was able to work out that the wiring for the motors on the RUMBA is different from the RB main board. The X, Y and Z motors were going in reverse. Simply required swapping the Blue and Red wires. The Z-steppers weren't responding correctly and I had to tear the RB almost completely apart before I was able to isolate each Z-stepper and verify that the A4988 module was faulty. Luckily when the Geeetech package arrived, they'd included 6 x A4988 instead of the 5 which I thought I was ordering. So after swapping in one of the spares the Z-axis worked correctly. I then had to put the RB back together again.

So finally I was ready to test the extruder motor, the original cause of all this hoohah. And it didn't work. Maybe a connection wasn't working. I traced the wires and discovered the BYEBYE board is missing a trace altogether. [Ed: no it was my faulty circuit tester; the board is fine.] So I tried plugging the extruder motor directly into the RUMBA and it sat there buzzing. We've heard that before, it means a faulty A4988. Luckily I had one more spare. I swapped it in and the extruder motor now turned correctly. Two faulty A4988s! I wonder if I accidentally damaged them when I put the heat sinks on.

So back to the wiring harness. Discovered that pin 1 in flat cable is not connected. Was it always open-circuit? Presumably not, otherwise motor would never have worked.

Anyway this gives me an excuse to take the whole extruder apart and put back the original stepper motor with the flattened shaft. Talk about an exercise in futility aka yak-shaving. And now I have to find where to get a replacement flat cable.


Friday, October 10, 2014

May your antiquated book publishing models die, die, die!

Read an interesting review of what appears to be an interesting book, Hieroglyph.

I read the sample chapter and was ready to buy it. Book was "released" 14 Sep 2014. Clicked on the ebook button so I could read it straight away. "This publication is not available in your area" (Australia). Huh?

Oh well, maybe Amazon.com could help. Nope: "we do not have pricing for the Kindle version yet". Paperback? "Not available till 2015".

So here is a book publisher which will not sell me a book I would like to buy right now.

I can guess why of course. They want to sell hardcover versions for a few months, then paperback versions, then ebooks but only in USA. Then sometime in the middle of next year they'll get around to making ebook version available to Oz.

So of course I will wait till it's available as a Torrent, download it and pay nothing. Or simply forget about it. There are some people who like to buy hard copies of books. I'm not one of them. I don't have the room any more. I only buy electronic versions. (Yes, I do buy (some) ebooks, usually on the spur of the moment of course.)

And the final irony is that the book is about optimistic techno futures. Hah! hah!

Rigidbot arrived!

Last week my almost despaired of Rigidbot 3D printer kit arrived. Project was successfully funded in May 2013 and here it is October 2014. Incredible tale of what can go wrong when you're trying to start a startup. All the usual suspects: dodgy suppliers substituting cheaper, lower quality parts; huge blowout in shipping costs; China Post doing it's best to completely destroy itself by never actually shipping what they said they did.

Anyway here's my baby:
Here's some of my first experiments in extruding:
Here's why I have a lot to learn (that box corner is not meant to lift up):
And here's why the Rigidbot is an incredible kit. It can basically be assembled with one Allen key (supplied), but there's a couple of parts need smaller keys (also supplied). However, it also needs a mallet (not supplied) because some of the tubes/rods simply do not fit easily inside some of the plastic fittings.
Now I have to learn how to design parts from scratch as well as re-use existing designs. Thingiverse.com has a huge number of designs to start with. But I've also had to learn to use OpenSCAD to design the box. (I tried simply using a Gcode file offered here but the differences between Felix printers and Rigidbots are too great. And I also discovered there are no usable Gcode to STL converters any more. There might have been a couple of years ago but not maintained now.)

Then I had to learn about various slicers and dicers to generate Gcode from the design and upload the print task to the Rigidbot. Eventually settled on Repetier-Host for Mac for initial prototyping but also installed Octoprint on my RPi so I can offload print tasks to RPi while I continue with MacBook.